Mustang · Nepal
Upper Mustang
The former Kingdom of Lo — cave cities, red cliffs and the walled capital of Lo Manthang.
Upper Mustang is an easy–moderate road trip in Mustang, Nepal, reaching 4,200 m. The best time to go is March to June and September to November. Plan 10 to 12 days on the ground from Pokhara / Jomsom and about ₹4,500 per person per day.
What to do in Upper Mustang
The one thing not to miss
Lo Manthang
The walled capital: a palace, three old monasteries and narrow lanes.
- 2Chhoser cavesCliff dwellings cut into the rock, north of the city.
- 3Dhakmar and Ghar GompaRed cliffs and one of the oldest monasteries in the region.
- 4TijiA three-day masked festival, usually in May.
A sample plan: 8 days
Day 1
Pokhara to Jomsom and Kagbeni
By flight or road. The restricted-area permit is checked at Kagbeni.
Day 2
Kagbeni to Chele or Samar
Into the red and ochre canyons.
Day 3
On to Ghami or Tsarang
Over several small passes.
Day 4
Tsarang to Lo Manthang
The walled city.
Day 5
Lo Manthang
The palace, the monasteries and the cave dwellings at Chhoser.
Day 6
Back to Ghami or Chhusang
By way of Ghar Gompa if on foot.
Day 7
To Jomsom
The wind rises in the afternoon.
Day 8
Jomsom to Pokhara
By flight or road.
The usual stages; operators and seasons vary, so treat it as a guide.
When to go
- ❄︎Jan
- Feb
- Mar
- Apr
- May
- Jun
- Jul
- Aug
- Sep
- Oct
- Nov
- ❄︎Dec
Why go
A Tibetan Buddhist kingdom that survived into the 21st century, in a genuine desert landscape.
Why not
Expensive restricted-area permit (around USD 500 for 10 days) and long, rough jeep days.
Before you go
- Permits
- Restricted Area Permit (USD ~500/10 days) + ACAP. Must go with a registered agency.
- Guide
- Required by law.
- Safety
- Strong winds every afternoon; fly out of Jomsom in the morning.
- Phone & internet
- Patchy; Jomsom has 4G.
Altitude
Upper Mustang reaches 4,200 m, high enough for altitude sickness to be a real risk whatever your age or fitness.
- Gain height gradually. Above 3,000 m, try not to sleep more than about 500 m higher than the night before, and take a rest day for every 1,000 m gained.
- Drink plenty of water and avoid alcohol and sleeping pills.
- Headache with nausea, dizziness or exhaustion means stop going up. If it does not improve with rest, go down.
- Breathlessness while resting, a wet cough, confusion or trouble walking straight is an emergency: go down at once, by night if necessary, and get medical help.
- Medicines such as acetazolamide (Diamox) are for a doctor to prescribe; they are not a substitute for going up slowly.
General guidance, not medical advice.
Permits, food and festivals in Nepal →
These details haven't been field-verified yet. Confirm permits, road status and weather locally before you travel.
If something goes wrong
Main hospitals in Nepal: CIWEC Hospital, Kathmandu; Himalayan Rescue Association aid posts, Pheriche (Everest) and Manang (Annapurna); Manipal Teaching Hospital, Pokhara.
All emergency contacts for Nepal →What to pack for Upper Mustang
Worked out from its season, altitude and terrain. Tick things off as you pack; tap a name to find it in a shop.
Clothing
12 items
- Fleece or light sweater Evenings turn cold in the hills even in summer.
- Thermal inner wear (top and bottom) Nights drop below freezing in the snow months.
- Down or padded jacket Your main warm layer for mornings, evenings and high points.
- Woollen cap that covers the ears Most body heat is lost from the head.
- Woollen socks, 2–3 pairs Dry woollen socks for the night matter more than you expect.
- Waterproof gloves You will be touching snow; ordinary woollen gloves get wet.
- Neck gaiter or balaclava Covers nose and neck in wind and on cold mornings.
- Hand warmers A small, cheap comfort at camp and on early starts.
- Quick-dry trekking pants, 2 pairs Jeans stay wet and heavy; these dry overnight.
- Quick-dry T-shirts, 2–3 Cotton holds sweat and chills you when you stop.
- Sun cap or hat Hours in open sun, with little shade above the tree line.
- Rain jacket or poncho The season here overlaps the rains.
Footwear
4 items
- Trekking shoes with ankle support About 60 km of uneven trail; break them in before you go.
- Microspikes For grip on hard snow and ice. Trek operators often provide these — ask before buying.
- Gaiters Keep snow out of your shoes.
- Camp sandals or floaters Let your feet rest at camp, and useful for stream crossings.
Trek gear
11 items
- Rucksack, 40–60 litres Carries everything for a multi-day trek.
- Rain cover for your bag Keeps your bag and dry clothes dry.
- Headlamp with spare batteries Camps and villages have little or no lighting; summit starts are before dawn.
- Insulated flask Water freezes in ordinary bottles overnight.
- Dry bags or zip pouches Separate wet from dry, and protect your phone and documents.
- Trekking poles Take load off your knees on the descent.
- Energy bars and dry fruit There are few or no shops on the trail.
- Tissue roll, hand sanitiser and wet wipes Camp and trail toilets are basic.
- Quick-dry towel Dries overnight in a tent.
- Sleeping bag liner Adds warmth and keeps an operator's sleeping bag hygienic.
- Duffel bag, 60–80 litres What porters carry on teahouse treks; your day pack stays with you.
Health and sun
11 items
- Sunscreen, SPF 50 UV is much stronger at altitude and on snow.
- Small first-aid kit and your own medicines The nearest chemist may be hours away.
- UV-protection sunglasses Protects against snow glare and strong high-altitude light.
- Lip balm with SPF Cold, dry air cracks lips within a day.
- ORS sachets For dehydration and tired legs.
- Water-purifying bottle or tablets Stream and tap water should be treated.
- Blister plasters and a crepe bandage New or wet shoes rub; treat a hot spot before it becomes a blister.
- Pulse oximeter Lets you watch your oxygen level above 4,000 m. It does not replace descending if you feel unwell.
- Insect repellent Mosquitoes and midges at lower altitudes and in the wet months.
- A word with your doctor about altitudeYou will go above 3,500 m (to 4,200 m). Ask a doctor about altitude sickness before you travel, and plan a slow ascent.
- Moisturiser and a saline nasal spray The air is very dry; skin and the inside of the nose crack within days.
Documents and money
4 items
- Government photo ID and two photocopiesIndians need a passport or voter ID to enter Nepal; other nationals need a passport and visa.
- Enough cash for the whole tripATMs are scarce and often empty beyond the gateway town.
- Permits and registrationsRestricted Area Permit (USD ~500/10 days) + ACAP. Must go with a registered agency.
- Indian ₹100 notes, or Nepali rupees₹100 notes are the safest Indian currency to carry in Nepal; larger notes are not always accepted. Change money in Kathmandu or Pokhara before the trail.
Phone and power
3 items
- Power bank Charging is limited, and cold drains batteries fast.
- A SIM that works therePatchy; Jomsom has 4G.
- Universal travel adapter Nepal's sockets differ from India's in many lodges.
For what you're going for
4 items
- Light travel tripod For sunrise, night skies and long exposures.
- Spare memory card and camera battery Cold drains camera batteries; there is nowhere to buy spares.
- Car phone mount and charger Hands-free navigation on mountain roads.
- Portable tyre inflator Punctures happen far from the next repair shop.
Read before you go
2 items
- A guidebook for Nepal Worth reading before you go, and it works without a signal.
- A paper trekking map A paper map still works when the phone doesn't.
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Getting there
The nearest gateway is Pokhara / Jomsom.
Directions open in Google Maps with today's road time. In the mountains, add a third to whatever it says.
- Normal car?
- No. Take a 4×4 or a local taxi. Mountain roads in Nepal are slow and often rough; allow more time than the distance suggests.
By road
From
Jomsom
- Distance
- about 85 km
- Drive time
- 5–6 hours
- Jomsom
- Kagbeni
- Chhusang
- Ghami
- Lo Manthang
A restricted area: you need a special permit arranged through a registered agency, and a guide.
Live directions from JomsomFrom
Pokhara
- Distance
- about 160 km to Jomsom
- Drive time
- 7–9 hours
- Pokhara
- Beni
- Tatopani
- Jomsom
Buses and shared taxis. Fly or drive to Jomsom; beyond Kagbeni, travel is by hired jeep or on foot.
Pickups & drivers
From Pokhara / Jomsom. Call or WhatsApp the driver directly.
No drivers listed for Upper Mustang yet. Drive this route? List your cab.
Upper Mustang: questions people ask
What is the best time to visit Upper Mustang?
The best months for Upper Mustang are March to June and September to November. December to February and July and August are possible but not ideal. Snow is likely in December and January.
How difficult is Upper Mustang?
Upper Mustang is rated easy–moderate. The trek is about 60 km in total, starting at 2,800 m and reaching 4,200 m.
How many days do you need for Upper Mustang?
Plan 10 to 12 days on the ground, counted from Pokhara / Jomsom. Add travel days to reach the gateway from your city.
How much does a trip to Upper Mustang cost?
Expect about ₹4,500 per person per day for a mid-range trip (stay, food and local transport). That is roughly ₹54,000 for 12 days, before the cost of getting to Pokhara / Jomsom.
How do you reach Upper Mustang?
By road: from Jomsom it is about 85 km, 5–6 hours (Jomsom → Kagbeni → Chhusang → Ghami → Lo Manthang); from Pokhara it is about 160 km to Jomsom, 7–9 hours (Pokhara → Beni → Tatopani → Jomsom). Fly or drive to Jomsom; beyond Kagbeni, travel is by hired jeep or on foot. The nearest gateway is Pokhara / Jomsom.
Do you need a permit or a guide for Upper Mustang?
Permits: Restricted Area Permit (USD ~500/10 days) + ACAP. Must go with a registered agency. Guide: Required by law.
Is Upper Mustang suitable for children and senior citizens?
With children it is not advised; with seniors it is possible with care. It is quiet in season. Strong winds every afternoon; fly out of Jomsom in the morning.
What should you pack for Upper Mustang?
Pack fleece or light sweater, thermal inner wear (top and bottom), down or padded jacket, woollen cap that covers the ears, woollen socks, 2–3 pairs, waterproof gloves, neck gaiter or balaclava, hand warmers, quick-dry trekking pants, 2 pairs. Also carry a government photo ID, enough cash and any permits. The full list is on this page.
Is there mobile network and internet at Upper Mustang?
Patchy; Jomsom has 4G.
Will I get altitude sickness at Upper Mustang?
Upper Mustang reaches 4,200 m, high enough for altitude sickness to be a real risk whatever your age or fitness. Gain height gradually. Above 3,000 m, try not to sleep more than about 500 m higher than the night before, and take a rest day for every 1,000 m gained. Drink plenty of water and avoid alcohol and sleeping pills. Headache with nausea, dizziness or exhaustion means stop going up. If it does not improve with rest, go down. This is general guidance, not medical advice.
Who should not go to Upper Mustang?
Upper Mustang is not a good choice for families with children, older travellers who find long walks or rough roads hard and anyone with a heart, lung or blood-pressure condition unless a doctor has cleared them for 4,200 m. Also keep in mind: Expensive restricted-area permit (around USD 500 for 10 days) and long, rough jeep days.
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